Straw Plait - Overlapping
Men’s straw boater, Sheila plait made by Olney Headwear, 1990s.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Men’s straw boater
This iconic summer hat is indelibly linked to the town of Luton in Bedfordshire were they have been made for over 120 years. Boaters are still made in the town. This one was made by Olney Headwear in the 1990s. It is made from a Chinese split wheat straw plait known in the trade as Sheila.
Plait made by Veronica Main and boater finished by Olney Headwear, Luton.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Men’s straw boater
Always a fashionable item, boaters were made using a range of products and each season the proportions of the shape would vary. Veronica Main made the plait for this boater. It required about 24 metres of plait black and white Rustic plait. After preparing the straws from several sheaves of wheat, cutting then sorting, the straws were taken to Barford Brothers, Luton where they were bleached and dyed. Once the plait was made it was machine-stitched to shape at Olney Headwear, Luton who also stiffened, blocked and trimmed the boater. Olney produced black and white rustic boaters, as part of their production, until the 1980s.
Miniature Harrow School boater, early 1900s.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Miniature straw boater
This is a miniature replica of a boater worn by boys at Harrow School. It is made using rustic plait that has been hand-stitched to shape. The rustic plait may have been imported from Japan. In the crown there is a label for the manufacturer and retailer E.A. Burns, 52 High Street, Harrow. The hat dates to the first half of the 1900s perhaps having been made as a souvenir.
Straw boater, made by Vyse and Son, 1900s.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Girl’s school boater
This boater is made using notch or one-purl pattern wholestraw plait. Girl’s and women’s straw boaters are frequently a softer shape than the hard straight lines of a boy’s or men’s boater therefore it is unclear whether this boater was originally intended for a girl. The ribbon could have been added later. Inside there is a maker’s stamp: Ridgemont, which was the trademark of the hat maker, Vyse & Son.
Girl’s school uniform boater, made by Olney Headwear, late 1900s.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Girl’s school uniform hat
The hat shown was made by Olney Headwear, Luton in the 1970s. It is a girl’s summer school uniform hat made from very narrow wheat straw plait imported from China. It was machine sewn into its shape by Olney workers in Luton. The hat has not yet been trimmed with a ribbon in the school’s colours.
Nursemaid’s bonnet, late 1800s. Maker unknown.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s hat - wheat straw plait
This nursemaid’s bonnet dates to the late 1800s. It is made from a notch or one-purl wholestraw plait, dyed brown. Inside is professionally lined. It has been trimmed with velvet ribbon and has its original brown silk ribbons that were used to fasten the bonnet to the wearer’s head. Ribbons alone would not have been enough, it is also required the use of hat pins and there are holes showing where they were placed.
Women’s hat, mid 1900s, made in London.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s hat - wheat straw plait
This high quality hat has a maker’s label on the headband: Cannon Regd Model London. The hat dates to the 1940s, possibly early 1950s. It is made from a narrow straw plait that could have been imported from either China or Italy. The plait has been machine-stitched. The trimming is a decorative veiling, finished at the back of the crown in a loose bow and a machine-made lace motif indicates the centre front.
Women’s straw plait hat, 1940s. Liseret plait.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s hat - wheat straw plait
This hat is made from Liseret plait. The plait has been dyed brown. It has been sewn to shape using a machine. Dating to the 1940s, this hat is trimmed with a felt band and bow. The crown is not lined, but there is a petersham headband. There is no maker’s label.
Women’s straw hat, 1940s improved three-purl plait.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s hat - wheat straw plait
This hat of very similar design to the previous one. Could it have been made on the same hat block? However, this one is made from a split straw improved three-purl plait. The straw has been bleached but not dyed. The plait has been sewn to shape using a machine. Trimmed with a wide petersham ribbon and bow, the inside of the crown is not lined. There is a headband but no maker’s label.
Cocktail hat made in the USA from imported plait. Mid 1900s.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s cocktail hat
Although made from a man-made tape, this 1950s cocktail hat, purchased in the United States, has been hand plaited and stitched to shape by overlapping the rows. They have then mounted onto a man-made fibre Paris net. The plait is a very unusual version of rustic plait. Instructions for making can be found in my book Swiss Straw Work, page 156. Sadly there is no maker’s label. The hat originally had a feather decoration which has now been lost. The hat is trimmed with velvet.
Women’s cocktail hat, 1950s. Made in the USA.
Copyright: Veronica Main
Women’s cocktail hat
This machine-made braid, made from a tape of cellophane wrapped paper, has been machine-stitched together and since the underside of the brim will be seen when the hat is worn, the hat has an under-brim. This 1950s cocktail hat was purchased in upstate New York. It does have a maker’s label: Belmar. Sadly there is no other information to provide you with further details.