Swiss Straw Work
Just some of the amazing collection at the Schweizer Strohmuseum.
Although today workers use the skills for decorative pieces, originally the techniques were made for the world important Swiss hat materials industry. Using bleached and sometimes dyed split rye straw and using passementerie and other techniques the straws were worked into a wide range of motifs. Perhaps the most exciting introduction, during the 1840s, was the making of two-ply threads called Schnürli or Drähtli. They revolutionised the millinery trade.
It is important to explain that the Swiss also used Manilla hemp and later other materials to create a wide range of products. Some Schnürli and Macramé found on hats from the mid 1800s onwards are made from hemp.
The place that should be on everyones bucket list to visit is Schweizer Strohmuseum in Wohlen, canton Aargau. There you will find the most compresenive and stunning collections of this industry on display in the beautiful Villa Isler.
Schnürli motif brooch made by Veronica Main.
Copyright: hatplait 2020
Schnürli or straw thread motifs
To make the Schnürli you can use wheat or rye straw. First split the straw, which within the industry was first bleached, carerfully soften to make the splints pliable. Choose two splints the same width, damp them just a little and then the magic begins.
You need a spinning machine (Schnürlirädli) and with understanding of the technique and practice within a few seconds you can spin a two-ply thread. The Swiss made these threads by the thousands to supply the workers who turned the threads into a wide-range of motifs.
The finished threads need a minimal amount of damping then they are ready to use.
Many of the techniques involve winding in various sequences round a set of needles. Each combination of needle number and winding sequence produces a different type of motif. The brooch shown incorporates four different types of motif. In the centre there is a wooden bead wrapped in split straw.
A selection of Oberwil techniques (Rollen) and Schnürli covered wooden beads made by Veronica Main.
Copyright: hatplait 2020
Split straw motifs
Using split rye straw is possibly the easiest way to start producing the Swiss techniques. It is possible to use wheat or rye straw. Split the straw, soften it, the softening is vitally important as it lessens the chance of the straw cracking as it is worked. These days the most widely made split straw motif is the Spreuer, however the image shows a more complicated but very interesting and versatile technique where the damp splints are wrapped around a former then held in place with a fine wire. The wire allows them to be twisted into a range of shapes such as roses and hops. Another simple technique is quilling with split straws.
Whole straw leaf and Schnürli motif brooch.
Designed and made by Veronica Main.
Copyright: hatplait 2020
Whole straw motifs
Another amazing Swiss technique was (and still is if you want to try) working with whole straws. Using templates they formed the damp bleached straws around the template, then used thread to hold the shape in place. There were a variety of shapes, this is one of the more simple ones. They are very satisfying to work. You will not be surprised to read that there are other techniques with whole straws.
Straw sheet with a selection of paillette.
Made by Veronica Main.
Copyright: hatplait 2020
Straw sheet motifs
Taking the whole straw, the Swiss split them, softened, smoothed and flattened them then glued them side by side on to a fibrous paper backing to make a sheet of straw. The straw sheet was cut into a range of shapes including paillette (straw sequins). I have written all that in the past tense but it is something you can do. If the straw is correctly prepared and glued to a suitable backing then it can also be embossed.
Detail from Dicentra.
Designed and made by Veronica Main.
Copyright: hatplait 2020
Using Swiss techniques today
The Swiss techniques offer many opportunities for mixed media artists and hat designers. The Swiss were great innovators within the hat industry and were never afraid of using a wide range of materials to create their products. They also scaled up their work when necessary by using larger needles or forms. All things are possible with a little practice and patience.
The image shows the detail from a piece made by Veronica Main. It is called Dicentra. The Spreuer, made with natural and dyed straw, hang from twisted copper wire to give movement. The leaves are cut from sheets of dyed straw.