Hand Woven Flare
Panama hat - men
The first point to make is that while “panama’ hats are made in many countries, genuine Panama hats are woven in Ecuador. They are made in various qualities, some only taking a few days to weave and others such as the finest Montecristi taking several weeks, if not months. This Panama hat woven in Ecuador was blocked and trimmed by Olney Headwear in Luton.
Panama hat - women
Made in Ecuador this woman’s hat has been skilfully woven by hand. It is made from toquilla palm and would have taken several days to weave to decorative pattern. To provide flexibility for the shaping over a hat block the weave must be diagonal. The weaving process begins at the top centre of the crown with what is called the rosette. As the size of the crown increases new lengths of palm must be added.
Women’s hat - sisal
This hat formed from a sisal cone was made in Luton in the 1990s. It is an inexpensive copy of a style made popular by Princess Diana. This hat was purchased from the market in Luton. It was probably made in the town by a local hat manufacturer. Inside it has a simple petersham headband. The trimming is a maribou feather.
Women’s hat - buntal
The buntal cone used to make this hat was purchased from a millinery supplier in Italy and is fine quality typical of production in the mid-1900s. The hat was made for me by Caroline Felber, Luzern, Switzerland who trimmed it with a beautiful grouping of Swiss products made for the hat industry. Some of the motifs, made from two-ply straw threads probably date to the 1800s. The blue beads are linden wood forms covered with dyed split straw. Directions for making the motifs on this hat are in my book, Swiss Straw Work - Techniques of a Fashion Industry.
Women’s hat - hand woven
This hat was purchased from a hat stall at Luton’s indoor market in the early 1980s. It must have been old stock for it certainly was not fashionable at that time! It is made strips from paper or ramie tapes that have been wrapped in cellophane. The strips have been hand woven over a block. The hat is trimmed with a petersham ribbon and bow and there is a headband, but no maker’s label.